The Straits Times Singapore
March
9, 2012 Friday
Effective
ingredients for beauty products;
This is a column
that cuts through the industry spiel and
jargon to give you the bare facts
SECTION: URBAN; Shopping Briefs; Beauty
basics
There may have been a slew of health scares related to beauty products
and ingredients, but some have been proven to work. Here are eight
tried-and-tested ingredients that address various needs.
Retinol
This is a form of vitamin A that is medically proven to stimulate cell
renewal and result in younger-looking skin.
It improves skin tone and reduces the appearance of pigmentation spots.
It is also commonly used to treat acne-prone skin as it encourages cell
turnover.
Doctors may prescribe tretinoin, which is a stronger form of retinol. It
is a prescription cream because it may cause redness and peeling in some
patients.
Ceramides
Ceramides are naturally occurring fatty substances, called lipids, that
form part of the structure of the skin's surface.
They help retain moisture in the skin and keep it smooth and glowing.
Ceramides in creams are absorbed by the skin to replace the depleted
ceramides in the skin's structure, thus helping to repair the skin.
They are used to soothe and heal dry, damaged and sensitive skin.
They can be used to relieve the itch caused by eczema, but those with
acne-prone skin should avoid them as they may be too rich.
Antioxidants
Antioxidants are the molecules that neutralise free radicals, naturally
occurring particles that are one of the major causes of DNA damage.
DNA
damage results in the signs of skin ageing, which include wrinkles,
pigmentation, skin discoloration and sagging skin.
Antioxidants form a protective barrier on the skin's surface to
neutralise free radicals before they cause damage to the skin's cells.
Common antioxidants used in skincare products include vitamins C and E,
idebenone, coenzyme Q10, niacinamide and green tea extract.
Hyaluronic acid
This gelatinous substance is a humectant, which absorbs and binds to
water molecules, hence boosting the skin's moisture levels.
It sits on the surface of the skin to lock moisture in.
This film also helps to give the appearance of firmer, line-free skin.
When applied, it imparts a refreshing sensation to the skin, which makes
it a popular ingredient in serums and moisturisers.
It is suitable for all skin types.
Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA)
This is a naturally occurring acid found in plants, fruits and animals.
AHAs include citric, glycolic, malic and tartaric acids.
They are applied to the skin to dissolve the top layers of the skin to
reveal younger looking skin.
The skin is stimulated to produce new skin cells in this way.
They are used to remove blemishes and pigmentation on the surface of the
skin, and also reduce the appearance of pores and wrinkles.
Off-the-shelf exfoliators typically contain AHA in weak enough
concentrations to be tolerated by most skin types, although those with
sensitive skin should avoid these products.
A doctor can also perform a peel using a higher concentration of AHA.
Peptides
These are short chains of amino acids, which are the basic building
blocks of proteins.
They are small enough to be absorbed by the skin and can trigger cells
into action.
Although peptides have many functions, the ones used in skincare
activate the cells into producing collagen.
Collagen is a protein found in the skin that helps it maintain its
plumpness for a wrinkle-free appearance.
Salicylic acid
This acid is commonly used to treat mild acne.
It works by exfoliating the top layers of the skin's cells to promote
cell turnover, similar to the way AHAs work.
It is not as strong as benzoyl peroxide, which makes it suitable for
milder cases of acne.
It can also be applied to patches of skin which are plagued with small
bumps.
Benzoyl peroxide
The exact action of benzoyl peroxide is not known but it is believed to
have antiseptic properties, that is, it kills bacteria.
It also helps to dry out acne pustules.
As it is a stronger chemical compared to salicylic acid, it should be
used only on more stubborn bumps.
Over-the-counter creams are generally well tolerated by most skin types,
but doctors can prescribe stronger formulations.
Use this only for spot treatment, instead of spreading it over a patch,
as it can irritate the skin.
~ KAREN TEE
Copyright 2012 Singapore Press
Holdings Limited
All Rights Reserved
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